Looking at the tragic events unfolding on the same streets of Rangoon I was walking only a few weeks earlier seemed unreal. While I was there small demonstrations against the 100% fuel hike and huge food price increases took place but there wasn’t any indication of the outpouring of anger and a popular revolt, images of which were exported around the horrified world.
From what I understand the picture of a one dimensional brutal elite dictatorship is too simplistic. Burma is an ethnically diverse population with the Bamar the majority over other ethnic groups which include the Mon, Shan, Kachin and Kayan amongst others. They also represent different types of Buddhism. The military leaders are Buddhists of the Bamar elite and mix this with a second world war Japanese military philosophy and mentality. Throughout Burma government slogans such “Only where there is discipline will there be progress” appear in English as well as Burmese. It seems now that the bare-footed defenceless monks who have been battered, killed and incarcerated by the brutal and cowardly military was all in vain as the attention of the world fades and the Burmese will again become a forgotten people.
Aung San Suu Kyi is revered by her people and the world at large. However many of the Burmese pro-democracy movement disagree with her uncompromising stance of including tourism in the widespread on embargo on inward investment. She is seen as a female Nelson Mandela and although I fully supported sanctions in South Africa I believe her claim that those who travel to Burma are actively supporting the junta is totally wrong. Although some money will inevitably end up in the coffers of the military there is a vibrant black economy and widespread privatisation so you target your cash to those who desperate for income. I and my fellow travellers in Burma were not only warmly welcomed by the people on the streets but were actively encouraged to convince others in the West to include Burma on their itinerary to burgeoning South East Asian tourist destinations.
As the attention of the powerful players in the West begins to wane it looks as though that the military have not only survived but have strengthened their grip as all the main activists are either dead or have been imprisoned. I believe that if the increasing numbers of people travelling to Thailand and former French Indo-China included Burma of the itinerary it would open up the country and slowly loosen the iron grip of the military.
Below are photos including one of a monk who singled me out for a friendly chat and a photo opportunity at the Sule Paya in central Rangoon. The others were taken at the magnificent Shwedagon Paya the most important pagoda in pagoda inundated Burma. Both these pagodas were the rallying points of the recent bloody protests. I can only wonder in trepidation of what became of these monks and if they survived what their current plight is. The monks I spoke to were very welcoming and encouraged more visitors. Travelling there is not just an act of solidarity but a wondrous journey to an ancient culture with little of ugly western influences found elsewhere in Asia. You will be totally seduced by the people especially by those of the beaten track and you will help alleviate their poverty money the most.